A GEM of a restaurant: Lados

Eat, drink and enjoy

As a travel writer, I reviewed more than 500 restaurants, all over the world. I always looked for one type of place in particular. There's plenty of good food out there (bad, too; I never wrote reviews for those), but a place that met three criteria was golden: 1. locally owned, 2. amazing food, 3. decent prices. I found one, in the south bay. And believe me, you'd never know it was there unless someone told you about it.

LADOS (115 Plaza Dr, Sunnyvale, CA 94089, Lados Restaurant (ladosfood.com)) is a small Pakistani restaurant set in a residential neighborhood in Sunnyvale that's worth finding. You won't find slick decor here, but you will find a place filled with local folks and food that is made to order (yes, you'll wait a few minutes). Two vege samosas ($6.49) are huge and delicious. and the legendary Zinger burger (with fries, $14.99, which is actually fried chicken) is huge - easily enough for two. When I first pulled up to the place, I thought it was closed; the attached business space is for lease, and the door doesn't call a lot of attention to itself. Not many tiny, non-descript eateries get 4.4 stars at Yelp (Yelp review lados, sunnyvale - Search (bing.com), but this one deserves that and more. Nice people, too.

A Perfect Day in a Perfect Place: Balboa Park

Cymbidiums abound in Balboa Park's pleasantly shaded plant house

Land was set aside in 1868 by San Diego civic leaders for what was then called "City Park." The sandy, scrub-covered mesa that overlooked present-day downtown San Diego sat without formal landscaping or development for more than 20 years. It was renamed for Spanish explorer Vasco Núñez de Balboa in honor of the 1915 Panama-California Exposition, held in the Park that year. Today Balboa Park's total land parcel is 1,200 acres, and is one of the city's major destinations for locals and tourists.

The 1915-16 Panama-California Exposition commemorated the opening of the Panama Canal and provided a major impetus for the creation of the Park as it appears today—it was the first of two major Expositions that created many of the cultural institutions as well as the stunning architecture in Balboa Park. The San Diego Zoo was established in 1916, the second year of this exposition.


Most of the arts organizations along Balboa Park's famous colonnaded El Prado pedestrian walkway -including a popular restaurant with outdoor seating, The Prado - are housed in Spanish-Renaissance style buildings constructed for the 1915 Exposition. It was one of the first times that this distinctive, flamboyant architectural style had ever been used in the United States. The park features numerous cafes and restaurants for all budgets and tastes.

The Park also features a large lattice-style botanical building and lily pond for exotic plants and the Alcazar Garden set in a fantastical building straight from Arabian Spain, an Art Museum (one of 17 museums and collections) and frequent cultural events. A visitor could easily spend more than one day wandering about.

Balboa Park was declared a National Historic Landmark, and a National Historic Landmark District in 1977.

Off to the Sun: Desert to Ocean - Beautiful San Diego

The last time I was in San Diego, I visited the (considerably smaller) zoo and drove through into Mexico. This time, I was visiting a dear old friend who found me after a years-long separation. Thank you, Internet! Getting off the plane and driving to Carol's home at the border of North and South Park was like stepping into a desert mirage - water, water everywhere.

 The harbor is justifiably famous, and San Diego is a happening town. That evening, we went to dinner in one of the hot neighborhoods, The Gaslamp Quarter in Old Town. Once the purview of winos and the homeless, this long street lined with Victorian buildings interspersed with modern storefronts and illuminated with gaslamp-style electric lights was packed on a Saturday night with folks out for a fine meal, nightclub or stroll. It was a scene! We ate at a Thai place with excellent curries and Yum Nuea (spicy beef salad), Sab Lai Thai Kitchen. It was voted the best Thai restaurant in the city in 2017, and is on the main drag, 5th Ave., in the Gaslamp.

After dinner, we buzzed another local hotspot, Little Italy. San Diego has gone all out to make parts of the town true destinations, and this was no exception. India Street is the central road here, and is connected to the other main street, Columbia, by Piazza della Famiglia, a 10,000-square-foot plaza with a dramatic tiled fountain. Little Italy is known for its restaurants, and, like the Gaslamp, it was packed on Saturday night.


After dinner, we went to Carol's home and I met her loyal guardians, two enormous Australian shepherds.
That's Rio, on the right wondering how soon he can maneuver his way onto a lap for a belly scratch. Lido, on the left, just wants to adore you.





The next morning, we toured the neighborhood, which borders the east side of Balboa Park and is a destination in itself: North and South Park.  The area is a fascinating combination of a real neighborhood with eateries full of locals, shops where people actually know your name, and a destination with a number of craft breweries and boutiques.

Inside the Big Kitchen

More than a few of the establishments have been around for years, including the popular Big Kitchen Cafe on 30th and Grape. Most of the homes here are California Craftsman style with a few Victorians thrown in - an architecture that - to me anyway - typifies a southern California town. All in all, a great place to visit and explore.

ROAD TRIP! A Great Introduction

Lithia Park, Ashland  (Image by A.N. Smith-Lee)

A scenic spot at Lithia Springs

Ah Ashland. What a beautiful little town. We cruised into our stop for the night, and the initial impression was…Yikes! We had booked a room at Lithia Springs Resort, and pulling off the highway at dusk, the approach was slightly less than desirable. The resort property was fronted by a number of auto dealerships with attendant fluttering BUY NOW flags and neon-bright come-ons. Farther back on the road, the resort itself shared space with a memory-care facility. Fortunately, first impressions were totally overblown. This place was great! Beautiful, carefully maintained landscaping (seriously fat Koi in a pond); spacious, clean, well-thought-out rooms similar to separate floors in a townhouse; and the water! I knew Ashland’s natural spring water was sulfur-based, so I expected the place to reek (each room had its own two-person tub for private bathing, and there was a swimming pool and hot-tub not far from our door). Oh, those clever spa folks! The water was filtered and “ozonated” – a fancy word for air bubbling through it in holding tanks (no chemicals!) - leaving almost no odor in the silky, alkaline, mineral rich water. It was hard to leave that tub, though the excellent fresh multi-choice full breakfast was a good reason. The staff was exceptional, too. Lithia Springs Resort is very much worth its tariff – even though they couldn’t predict who bought the land that fronted them.

Image courtesy TravelOregon

The Resort was a superb introduction to the town that has become synonymous with Shakespeare: During the city’s July Fourth celebration in 1935, Civic Leader Angus Bowmer arranged the first performances of what would become the Oregon Shakespeare Festival. The festival grew during the 20th century, and has become an award-winning, internationally known setting for regional theater and other art events. The festival is also responsible for spawning a host of Shakespearean names for hotels and restaurants (A Midsummer’s Dream, Romeo Inn, Oberon’s Restaurant etc.)

Speaking of which – no Elizabethan wordplay here – we chanced upon a restaurant by the name of Sauce. What a lucky find! Dozens of excellent vegetarian, meat and allergy-sensitive food items, so fresh you could smell the dirt they grew in (wait – that doesn’t sound appetizing!). Better to say we both enjoyed a really welcome hot meal in friendly (and very popular) surroundings.

And in a direct connection to San Francisco, Ashland used the same famed park designer, John McLaren, for their own city park – where we were delighted to visit on Day Three

Desert Done Right: The Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale

I have a thing for cool light fixtures

If one place could sum up a landscape, a state, an idea, it's the Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale at Troon North. It IS the showcase for the best of Arizona's mountain and desert landscapes. Walking through the doors into the main lobby takes your breath away as all of Phoenix spreads out before you, framed by massive wood beams and floor-to-ceiling windows. 

Lulled by the scent of sandalwood (yes, it's piped in, and one of many sensory delights here), you might make your way to the onyx bar (made from thin sheets of onyx lit from behind), or to the spa for a seasonal light and scent treatment in the steam room (this autumn it's magenta light and lavender steam). 

 OK, this is a five-star resort, and you would expect luxury casitas, multiple swimming pools, tennis courts, the works, and your expectations would be amply met. The sixth star at the four seasons is the setting. Nestled among ancient boulder-strewn mountains, the resort takes advantage of every view, and appreciates the unique flora of the desert - shapely cacti and other native plants - like nowhere else. It's a desert experience par excellence.

Another view of Proof

The casual eatery, Proof, is the kind of place anyone would feel comfortable dropping by for lunch in their hiking shorts. It's a cross between a sports bar and a soda fountain with upscale food (and prices to match). I had a super fresh lobster roll (seafood is flown in daily) that knocked my socks off (if I was wearing socks). The ice cream is made there and is  irresistible. Another indulgence are the pretzel nuts, a cross between a deep-fried donut and pretzel, slightly sweet, with a melty cheese dipping sauce. The salads are also great, and carry a considerably smaller guilt load.

High season tariff for rooms (that would be now) runs around $700, while late summer (it can get up to 120°) hovers around the $250 mark. Shoulder season is in between, literally.

Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale at Troon North
10600 East Crescent Moon Drive
Scottsdale, Arizona 85262-8342  
(480) 515-5700  

Only in Phoenix...The Mesa Swap Meet and Wong's

"We're all about recreational shopping" sez the Mesa Market Swap Meet

Every municipality has its own special places, and I'm drawn to them like a bee to the last blossom. These are Phoenix area exclusives:

Time to kill on a Friday, Saturday and Sunday, plus a hankering to shop until you need a foot rub and a place to rest your bottom? You  will probably find what you’re looking for (and then some) at the Mesa Market Swap Meet, but it may take a while. The term “miles of aisles” truly applies, as does “as seen on TV”; although there are only two aisles, they do appear to go on for miles, booth after booth of everything from car seat covers to laser-cut sun catchers and local stone jewelry. More of a mall similar to state fair sales barns than a place where individuals sell their antiques and unwanted items, the Swap Meet does have something for everyone. But your wallet will be the better for it if you know what you’re looking for, or you might come home scratching your head over the woven lap rug you just bought with a picture of a Comanche chief superimposed over an eagle and American flag.

There is a snack bar (hot dogs, tacos etc.) on the premises if the need strikes. The website offers coupons, and there's often live music on the weekends.

If there were a Chinese word for "beloved dive with good food" (and there probably is), it's the perfect description of Wongs Chinese Dining.. The people who run it are friendly and helpful (free fried wontons while you wait!), And the place is buzzing at lunchtime. I chose it because it was “where the locals eat” - a big Hispanic favorite - and close to the airport car rental place; from the outside, “unassuming” doesn’t cover it - “condemned” seems more accurate at first glance (I think the older part of the building IS condemned, judging from the chain link fence around it), but don't be fooled. My traveler instincts kicked in and said “take a chance”. I'm glad I did.

Pic is of pork egg foo young, as big as your head! The pork, in this case, is char sui, bits of Chinese-style red barbecued pork; it's covered with a heavier-than-usual pork-based gravy, but very tasty, nonetheless. Visitors have to wander back through the kitchen to get to the bathroom; consider it an opportunity to wave to the family busily cooking everything to order.

Places I didn't get to, but wish I did:

Scottsdale Thursday Evening Art Walk, 6:30-9PM in the "art district", along Main Street from Scottsdale Road to Goldwater Blvd. has been going strong since 1975. Live music, restaurants, fountains, statues and a generally festive atmosphere sound like lots of fun http://scottsdalegalleries.com/about/map/

Mesa Market Swap Meet
10550 E. Baseline Rd.
Mesa, AZ 85209
http://mesamarket.com/

Wong's Chinese Dining

1139 E. Buckeye Rd., Phoenix

Yelp Reviews (There's more than one Wong's - this is the "right" one): https://www.yelp.com/biz/wongs-chinese-dining-phoenix

Desert Rennaissance: Hotel Valley Ho and Mountain Shadows

Hotel Valey Ho (courtesty Hotel Valley Ho)

Both Hotel Valley Ho and Mountain Shadows Resort are the product of the forward-thinking triumvirate of developers behind Westroc Hospitality, a Phoenix-based company devoted to transforming unique (often run-down or tired) properties into extraordinary singular destinations.

Too cool for the 'fifties: the original lobby

Don’t you love it when you stumble on a great place unexpectedly? I found out about Hotel Valley Ho by accident, and almost didn’t stop by to check it out – that would have been a mistake. This mid-century-style landmark opened on December 20, 1956, and was the first hotel in the valley to have air conditioning, The name "Valley Ho" was the result of a newspaper contest inspired by its sister property Westward Ho, a hotel that didn't stand the test of time. Hotel Valley Ho is now a hip spot that caters to locals and visitors alike, with featured venues ZuZu restaurant and bar, VH Spa (Vitality + Health), The Tower Residences, and OH Pool Bar + Cabanas, named one of the “World’s Coolest Pools” by  Travel + Leisure.

Valley Ho bath

This was the first hotel renovated by Westroc, and Valley Ho has turned into a destination all its own, smack-dab in the center of Scottsdale’s action. The Museum of Contemporary Art, Scottsdale Waterfront  and Fashion Square Mall and other shopping and amusements are within easy walking distance. The hotel's grounds are beautifully landscaped, reminiscent of Maui without the humidity. Speaking of Maui, some online reviews of this hotel have lovely things to say about the beach access. Uh, no. No beach, but plenty of sand. The  rooms are attractive and comfortable, and the bar is a meeting place par excellence.

Dinner in restaurant ZuZu - particularly outside among the palm trees and tweeting birdies - is an uber-pleasant experience. The food was fabulous (perfectly prepared beef from Colorado, fresh-daily seafood, local veggies), and the wait staff more than accommodating (if you’re lucky, you’ll get Garrett, waiter extraordinaire and sommelier to be).

ZuZu in Hotel Valley Ho (courtesy of Hotel Valley Ho)

Valley Ho is a great all-around choice for a stay in downtown Scottsdale. High season (now until late May) averages about $300 per room for all amenities, low season is half that.

Restaurant fountain, Mountain Shadows

Cool, quiet, sleek, serene. Busy life got you down? Tired of paparazzi swarming like hornets? Tied to electronics? Mountain Shadows is your remedy. This resort is a place of refuge, away from the hustle and bustle of downtown Phoenix, set above the fancy shops and eateries of Scottsdale. It's the most recent property recreated by the Westroc group and its partners.

After all, if Mountain Shadows worked for dozens of the glamorous late '50s elite such as Lucile Ball and Desi Arnez, why not you? Of course, this isn’t the Hollywood getaway of the days of early TV, or even the episode of the TV pop show, The Monkees; those buildings no longer exist.

Lucille Ball extends the glad hand on her way into Mountain Shadows

Mountain Shadows view of Camelback Mountain

Lunch at Hearth 61

In their place, stunning ultramodern architecture takes in two-story floor-to-ceiling views of shadows falling over Camelback Mountain, two aqua blue pools beckon, luxe condos and rooms cocoon, an 18-hole golf course challenges, and an open kitchen/restaurant, Hearth 61, serves up locally sourced, thoughtfully prepared nourishment (the grilled eggplant and quinoa is especially tasty, though steak frites shared the drool factor). The bar and lounge enhance the serenity with a bubbling fountain and cozy seating in case you want company, but not too much. Rates are reasonable for this new property $215 - 500 per night, depending on the room and date.

Room at Mountain Shadows

Hotel Valley Ho
6850 East Main Street
Scottsdale, AZ 85251
(480) 376-2600 
https://www.hotelvalleyho.com/ 

Mountain Shadows

5445 E. Lincoln Dr.

Paradise Valley, AZ 85253 

(855) 485-1417

 mountainshadows.com/

Another view of Mountain Shadows' property

Another Phabulous Pharm in Phoenix - OK, I'll stop now. Phinally.

A view of the groves

“Former Detroit auto industry worker becomes olive farmer”
Isn't that a headline for the ages? Lucky for visitors to the area, That's exactly what Perry Rea did. After a period of study in Italy, the Rea family (wife Brenda and four and a half kids - Brenda was expecting) moved to Queen Creek (southeast Phoenix), planted olive trees and began their own business eleven years ago. Now, Queen Creek Olive Mill is a thriving concern, selling three grades of excellent quality olive oil, flavored oils, tapenades, and lots of other goodies, including beauty products (Olivespa) as well as edibles.
Olive oil lip balm, how do I love thee? Here in the desert, humidity is hard to come by – even in this fertile area, prunes not only grow on trees, but humans can turn into one with very little effort. The new line, created by one of the Rea kids, is fabulous.

Take the tour to find out how olive oil is made, the processes, differences in quality (you may never go to Safeway again), and how to really taste the stuff (hint: you warm it up before you swish it around). The Rea family has also published a pretty and practical take on Italian cooking with plenty of EVOO, of course.

Then order at the counter and wander out to the front shaded area to enjoy a tasty, inexpensive Italian-inspired meal among the groves: lunch every day, dinner on weekends. The Estrella pizza is sublime, the warm olives a meal in themselves. Good-sized portions, casual atmosphere and…most European of all… no tipping unless you force it on the busboys. It’s no wonder the Olive Mill has grown over the years and remains a local favorite.

We tried to leave some food on the plates, but it wasn't easy

The Olive Mill is not far from Schnepf Farm, so make a day of farm stops. Just try to avoid S. Rittenhouse Rd. during commute hours; The former 2-lane farm road hasn't kept up with all the new development in the area, and delays are unavoidable during those times.

Queen Creek Olive Mill
25062 S. Meridian Rd.
Queen Creek, AZ 85142

480-361-9860
https://www.queencreekolivemill.com/