Desert Done Right: The Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale

I have a thing for cool light fixtures

If one place could sum up a landscape, a state, an idea, it's the Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale at Troon North. It IS the showcase for the best of Arizona's mountain and desert landscapes. Walking through the doors into the main lobby takes your breath away as all of Phoenix spreads out before you, framed by massive wood beams and floor-to-ceiling windows. 

Lulled by the scent of sandalwood (yes, it's piped in, and one of many sensory delights here), you might make your way to the onyx bar (made from thin sheets of onyx lit from behind), or to the spa for a seasonal light and scent treatment in the steam room (this autumn it's magenta light and lavender steam). 

 OK, this is a five-star resort, and you would expect luxury casitas, multiple swimming pools, tennis courts, the works, and your expectations would be amply met. The sixth star at the four seasons is the setting. Nestled among ancient boulder-strewn mountains, the resort takes advantage of every view, and appreciates the unique flora of the desert - shapely cacti and other native plants - like nowhere else. It's a desert experience par excellence.

Another view of Proof

The casual eatery, Proof, is the kind of place anyone would feel comfortable dropping by for lunch in their hiking shorts. It's a cross between a sports bar and a soda fountain with upscale food (and prices to match). I had a super fresh lobster roll (seafood is flown in daily) that knocked my socks off (if I was wearing socks). The ice cream is made there and is  irresistible. Another indulgence are the pretzel nuts, a cross between a deep-fried donut and pretzel, slightly sweet, with a melty cheese dipping sauce. The salads are also great, and carry a considerably smaller guilt load.

High season tariff for rooms (that would be now) runs around $700, while late summer (it can get up to 120°) hovers around the $250 mark. Shoulder season is in between, literally.

Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale at Troon North
10600 East Crescent Moon Drive
Scottsdale, Arizona 85262-8342  
(480) 515-5700  

A BEACH DAY, PLUS GOATS

Up late as usual, and then a trip to the beach, to the town of Salobrena on the Costa del Sol, about an hour away. Salobrena is an attractive little resort town that isn’t listed in guidebooks, and the better for it. Marching down the pebbly beach, I swam in the Mediteranean for first time (it’s cold). Groups of teens and families peddled what looked like brightly colored plastic cars with slides on the back in the water. It began to rain, which discouraged very few people from their beach day; we walked around, desperately searching for a public bathroom (no luck); we encountered a cute Mexican girl with a lovely smile selling onyx pipes. Both Nick and Ron were smitten.

  We ended up at funky café, searching for a waiter (it had a bathroom, thank you!); an ancient fellow brought our tinto de veranos (half red wine, half lemonade, and the drink of choice for all concerned). We had to send out a search party to find him again to pay—the entire clientele (three locals) were completely involved in a dubbed western/kung fu movie on TV in the main bar.

We attempted to drive up the hill to a Moorish castle at the top. Ron, at the wheel, guided us through Mr. Toad’s wild ride; the old village streets were only about eight inches wider than our tiny Peugeot. It made for some thrilling twists and turns. We found space to park, started walking (the wrong way, of course), and were redirected by a lady couple that had rented a flat there with an awe-inspiring garden. We got to the castle at 8, and the fellow at the gate wouldn’t let us in—it closed at 8:30, but he wanted to hurry home to his dinner.

On the way down, we crossed the green fields we had seen from the summit, and made an unplanned stop for roughly 300 goats and their goatherd in the road. He finally rounded them up into the pasture—and we return to Salobrena to dine at a nearby restaurant—great views of the beach and sunset (I had a traditional dish, Zarzuela, a mixed fish stew in a tomato base).

Check out the video: https://vimeo.com/70760985