The Champagne of Bottled Springs

View from the enclosed "beauty baths"

I crossed over the mountain from a pleasant 65-degree, overcast, calm morning in Fort Bragg to Willits and Ukiah, where a 106-degree temperature nearly melted my car seats. Isn't it just like California to have a 35-degree temperature change an hour's distance away.

My main reason for stopping in Ukiah was Vichy Springs Resort, one of the oldest continuously operating mineral springs in the state. Vichy is touted as "Jack London's favorite" for it's bubbly carbonated water. It's certainly gone upscale since my last trip here 15 years ago. Then it was a clothing-optional hippie haven, with a shed where you paid to use the facilities. Now there's a set of hotel rooms, an Olympic-size pool, walking trails and landscaping. One of the trails leads to a waterfall  But some things remain the same as they were in 1854, when the former Native American site was "discovered" by settlers.

The old concrete tubs are stained with 160 year's of constant mineral

inflow. Bathing suits are required throughout the property, but there are 3 two-tub rooms like this one which can be conveniently locked for those who eschew swimwear. There are outdoor open tubs, and an open hot tub (104 degrees). The mineral bathing water isn't hot as most think of mineral springs - it's kept at 70 degrees year round.  If you sit still in the regular baths, you'll be covered with thousands of tiny bubbles, thanks to the water's carbonation - the "champagne effect." The tubs are huge: 8 feet long and 3 feet deep, and the bottoms are rough from decades of use (if you wear a suit, make it your shabbiest one, as the rough bottoms are tough on YOUR bottom and will tear up the lycra). Be warned: if you have some difficulty stepping down and up that distance, you'll need assistance (they're planning on putting up grab bars).

Tubs fill and empty using 1860s tech: You pull up the standpipe (the white thing in this pic) and place it in the hole on the other end of the tub; the tub fills. Reverse the procedure to empty the tub.

This particular tub is in the "beauty baths", which have more boron and less carbonation than the regular tubs. That mound surrounding the standpipe is a century of mineral flow accumulation of iron, sulphur and other minerals, supposedly great for softening the skin.

All I know is that I felt relaxed and happy after my $35 two-hour visit ($50 for three hours). Must have been the tiny bubbles.

On the way down 101, I was struck by a sudden desire tor barbecue, and I found a most interesting place: The Hamburger Ranch Slow Cooked BBQ in north Cloverdale (pardon me, "The World Famous Hamburger Ranch & BBQ" - they have a wall of international postcards to prove it). Country music on the speakers, old west funk decor and great BBQ. I fell in love with the waiter when he cheerfully replied, "Of course!" to every request. I understand this place is normally packed for sports games - I hope that's in their future. Meanwhile, if you're in the neighborhood, it's a worthwhile stop. Good 'cue isn't easy to find.

ROAD TRIP! A Great Introduction

Lithia Park, Ashland  (Image by A.N. Smith-Lee)

A scenic spot at Lithia Springs

Ah Ashland. What a beautiful little town. We cruised into our stop for the night, and the initial impression was…Yikes! We had booked a room at Lithia Springs Resort, and pulling off the highway at dusk, the approach was slightly less than desirable. The resort property was fronted by a number of auto dealerships with attendant fluttering BUY NOW flags and neon-bright come-ons. Farther back on the road, the resort itself shared space with a memory-care facility. Fortunately, first impressions were totally overblown. This place was great! Beautiful, carefully maintained landscaping (seriously fat Koi in a pond); spacious, clean, well-thought-out rooms similar to separate floors in a townhouse; and the water! I knew Ashland’s natural spring water was sulfur-based, so I expected the place to reek (each room had its own two-person tub for private bathing, and there was a swimming pool and hot-tub not far from our door). Oh, those clever spa folks! The water was filtered and “ozonated” – a fancy word for air bubbling through it in holding tanks (no chemicals!) - leaving almost no odor in the silky, alkaline, mineral rich water. It was hard to leave that tub, though the excellent fresh multi-choice full breakfast was a good reason. The staff was exceptional, too. Lithia Springs Resort is very much worth its tariff – even though they couldn’t predict who bought the land that fronted them.

Image courtesy TravelOregon

The Resort was a superb introduction to the town that has become synonymous with Shakespeare: During the city’s July Fourth celebration in 1935, Civic Leader Angus Bowmer arranged the first performances of what would become the Oregon Shakespeare Festival. The festival grew during the 20th century, and has become an award-winning, internationally known setting for regional theater and other art events. The festival is also responsible for spawning a host of Shakespearean names for hotels and restaurants (A Midsummer’s Dream, Romeo Inn, Oberon’s Restaurant etc.)

Speaking of which – no Elizabethan wordplay here – we chanced upon a restaurant by the name of Sauce. What a lucky find! Dozens of excellent vegetarian, meat and allergy-sensitive food items, so fresh you could smell the dirt they grew in (wait – that doesn’t sound appetizing!). Better to say we both enjoyed a really welcome hot meal in friendly (and very popular) surroundings.

And in a direct connection to San Francisco, Ashland used the same famed park designer, John McLaren, for their own city park – where we were delighted to visit on Day Three

Desert Done Right: The Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale

I have a thing for cool light fixtures

If one place could sum up a landscape, a state, an idea, it's the Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale at Troon North. It IS the showcase for the best of Arizona's mountain and desert landscapes. Walking through the doors into the main lobby takes your breath away as all of Phoenix spreads out before you, framed by massive wood beams and floor-to-ceiling windows. 

Lulled by the scent of sandalwood (yes, it's piped in, and one of many sensory delights here), you might make your way to the onyx bar (made from thin sheets of onyx lit from behind), or to the spa for a seasonal light and scent treatment in the steam room (this autumn it's magenta light and lavender steam). 

 OK, this is a five-star resort, and you would expect luxury casitas, multiple swimming pools, tennis courts, the works, and your expectations would be amply met. The sixth star at the four seasons is the setting. Nestled among ancient boulder-strewn mountains, the resort takes advantage of every view, and appreciates the unique flora of the desert - shapely cacti and other native plants - like nowhere else. It's a desert experience par excellence.

Another view of Proof

The casual eatery, Proof, is the kind of place anyone would feel comfortable dropping by for lunch in their hiking shorts. It's a cross between a sports bar and a soda fountain with upscale food (and prices to match). I had a super fresh lobster roll (seafood is flown in daily) that knocked my socks off (if I was wearing socks). The ice cream is made there and is  irresistible. Another indulgence are the pretzel nuts, a cross between a deep-fried donut and pretzel, slightly sweet, with a melty cheese dipping sauce. The salads are also great, and carry a considerably smaller guilt load.

High season tariff for rooms (that would be now) runs around $700, while late summer (it can get up to 120°) hovers around the $250 mark. Shoulder season is in between, literally.

Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale at Troon North
10600 East Crescent Moon Drive
Scottsdale, Arizona 85262-8342  
(480) 515-5700  

Desert Rennaissance: Hotel Valley Ho and Mountain Shadows

Hotel Valey Ho (courtesty Hotel Valley Ho)

Both Hotel Valley Ho and Mountain Shadows Resort are the product of the forward-thinking triumvirate of developers behind Westroc Hospitality, a Phoenix-based company devoted to transforming unique (often run-down or tired) properties into extraordinary singular destinations.

Too cool for the 'fifties: the original lobby

Don’t you love it when you stumble on a great place unexpectedly? I found out about Hotel Valley Ho by accident, and almost didn’t stop by to check it out – that would have been a mistake. This mid-century-style landmark opened on December 20, 1956, and was the first hotel in the valley to have air conditioning, The name "Valley Ho" was the result of a newspaper contest inspired by its sister property Westward Ho, a hotel that didn't stand the test of time. Hotel Valley Ho is now a hip spot that caters to locals and visitors alike, with featured venues ZuZu restaurant and bar, VH Spa (Vitality + Health), The Tower Residences, and OH Pool Bar + Cabanas, named one of the “World’s Coolest Pools” by  Travel + Leisure.

Valley Ho bath

This was the first hotel renovated by Westroc, and Valley Ho has turned into a destination all its own, smack-dab in the center of Scottsdale’s action. The Museum of Contemporary Art, Scottsdale Waterfront  and Fashion Square Mall and other shopping and amusements are within easy walking distance. The hotel's grounds are beautifully landscaped, reminiscent of Maui without the humidity. Speaking of Maui, some online reviews of this hotel have lovely things to say about the beach access. Uh, no. No beach, but plenty of sand. The  rooms are attractive and comfortable, and the bar is a meeting place par excellence.

Dinner in restaurant ZuZu - particularly outside among the palm trees and tweeting birdies - is an uber-pleasant experience. The food was fabulous (perfectly prepared beef from Colorado, fresh-daily seafood, local veggies), and the wait staff more than accommodating (if you’re lucky, you’ll get Garrett, waiter extraordinaire and sommelier to be).

ZuZu in Hotel Valley Ho (courtesy of Hotel Valley Ho)

Valley Ho is a great all-around choice for a stay in downtown Scottsdale. High season (now until late May) averages about $300 per room for all amenities, low season is half that.

Restaurant fountain, Mountain Shadows

Cool, quiet, sleek, serene. Busy life got you down? Tired of paparazzi swarming like hornets? Tied to electronics? Mountain Shadows is your remedy. This resort is a place of refuge, away from the hustle and bustle of downtown Phoenix, set above the fancy shops and eateries of Scottsdale. It's the most recent property recreated by the Westroc group and its partners.

After all, if Mountain Shadows worked for dozens of the glamorous late '50s elite such as Lucile Ball and Desi Arnez, why not you? Of course, this isn’t the Hollywood getaway of the days of early TV, or even the episode of the TV pop show, The Monkees; those buildings no longer exist.

Lucille Ball extends the glad hand on her way into Mountain Shadows

Mountain Shadows view of Camelback Mountain

Lunch at Hearth 61

In their place, stunning ultramodern architecture takes in two-story floor-to-ceiling views of shadows falling over Camelback Mountain, two aqua blue pools beckon, luxe condos and rooms cocoon, an 18-hole golf course challenges, and an open kitchen/restaurant, Hearth 61, serves up locally sourced, thoughtfully prepared nourishment (the grilled eggplant and quinoa is especially tasty, though steak frites shared the drool factor). The bar and lounge enhance the serenity with a bubbling fountain and cozy seating in case you want company, but not too much. Rates are reasonable for this new property $215 - 500 per night, depending on the room and date.

Room at Mountain Shadows

Hotel Valley Ho
6850 East Main Street
Scottsdale, AZ 85251
(480) 376-2600 
https://www.hotelvalleyho.com/ 

Mountain Shadows

5445 E. Lincoln Dr.

Paradise Valley, AZ 85253 

(855) 485-1417

 mountainshadows.com/

Another view of Mountain Shadows' property