Off to the Sun: A Really BIG Cave, and Daisy Mae's Revenge

Now that's a BIG cave! Image courtesy of Michelle Thompson, Karnchner Caverns State Park

We have soda straws, columns, birdsnest needle quartz, totems, heicites, rimstone dams - and, in case you're hungry, brushite moonmilk, turnip shields, popcorn, and bacon. Unfortunately, none of these are edible, but all are truly incredible. I'm mostly a dry cave connoisseur, like the ones I visited in my trips to France and Spain to see the cave art in 2013. Dry caves are just that - open to the air, and dried out, therefore no longer growing formations such as soda straws and moonmilk. Karchner Caverns is a wet cave, and the water coming from the land above the cave continues its slow path through layers of limestone and earth to create a fantastical underscape in a series of large rooms. The formations take millions of years to solidify; first the hollow soda straws aggregate calcium and other minerals, growing down from the cave ceiling, filling out over thousands of years to create stalactites. Sometimes they break from their own weight, other times water drops on the floor below to form a cone, a stalagmite -they meet, and a column is formed. In the picture above, the massive column in the middle of the large room is one of the biggest in the world, named Kubla Kahn, six stories high.

Karchner Caverns is the most popular State Park in Arizona, and with good reason. Heroic measures have been taken to not only preserve the cave interior and its timeless work, but to make the cave accessible to everyone. It's a triumph of conservation and education, and the rangers on duty clearly love the cave and can't wait to share it with visitors. The cave was discovered by a couple of amateur spelunkers in 1974, who wriggled through coat-hanger-sized holes from room to room in complete darkness. The pair kept the cave secret until 1978. Its transformation into a State Park reads like a suspense novel. It truly is a wonder for all ages. In addition, the park is designated as a dark sky site - no ambient light topside at night for you stargazers.

Image courtesy of Michelle Thompson, Karchner Caverns State Park

And just in case you're in the market for a new stuffed toy, this ancient cave sloth (about the size of a refrigerator with legs) was found in the cave - just the bones, of course. Small openings on the hills above the caves came and went over the eons, permitting animals - generally smaller than this guy - to wander in.

No visit to the area would be complete without a stop at a cowboy (cowgirl, actually) bar. Daisy Mae's Steakhouse is a local favorite in Tucson, the kind of place that has dollar bills pinned to the walls and a thin yellowish veneer on the 1960s wood paneling, from the years when people could actually smoke inside. Now the smoke is relegated to the mesquite barbecue pit outside. Did I mention the meat? It was GOOD. My friend had the pork chop and I had ribs, both served with all-you-can-eat beans and cowboy toast, plus baked potato with butter and sour cream. Oh yes, a chopped salad to start, but that hardly put a dent in the carb/protein fest that is Daisy Mae's. A local told me the place used to be named L'il Abner's (the professional matress-tester husband/boyfriend (?) of Daisy Mae in the old comic strips). I guess Abner snoozed his way out of the partnership and left Daisy to mind the pit.

All images by Joanne Orion Miller unless noted

Desert Rennaissance: Hotel Valley Ho and Mountain Shadows

Hotel Valey Ho (courtesty Hotel Valley Ho)

Both Hotel Valley Ho and Mountain Shadows Resort are the product of the forward-thinking triumvirate of developers behind Westroc Hospitality, a Phoenix-based company devoted to transforming unique (often run-down or tired) properties into extraordinary singular destinations.

Too cool for the 'fifties: the original lobby

Don’t you love it when you stumble on a great place unexpectedly? I found out about Hotel Valley Ho by accident, and almost didn’t stop by to check it out – that would have been a mistake. This mid-century-style landmark opened on December 20, 1956, and was the first hotel in the valley to have air conditioning, The name "Valley Ho" was the result of a newspaper contest inspired by its sister property Westward Ho, a hotel that didn't stand the test of time. Hotel Valley Ho is now a hip spot that caters to locals and visitors alike, with featured venues ZuZu restaurant and bar, VH Spa (Vitality + Health), The Tower Residences, and OH Pool Bar + Cabanas, named one of the “World’s Coolest Pools” by  Travel + Leisure.

Valley Ho bath

This was the first hotel renovated by Westroc, and Valley Ho has turned into a destination all its own, smack-dab in the center of Scottsdale’s action. The Museum of Contemporary Art, Scottsdale Waterfront  and Fashion Square Mall and other shopping and amusements are within easy walking distance. The hotel's grounds are beautifully landscaped, reminiscent of Maui without the humidity. Speaking of Maui, some online reviews of this hotel have lovely things to say about the beach access. Uh, no. No beach, but plenty of sand. The  rooms are attractive and comfortable, and the bar is a meeting place par excellence.

Dinner in restaurant ZuZu - particularly outside among the palm trees and tweeting birdies - is an uber-pleasant experience. The food was fabulous (perfectly prepared beef from Colorado, fresh-daily seafood, local veggies), and the wait staff more than accommodating (if you’re lucky, you’ll get Garrett, waiter extraordinaire and sommelier to be).

ZuZu in Hotel Valley Ho (courtesy of Hotel Valley Ho)

Valley Ho is a great all-around choice for a stay in downtown Scottsdale. High season (now until late May) averages about $300 per room for all amenities, low season is half that.

Restaurant fountain, Mountain Shadows

Cool, quiet, sleek, serene. Busy life got you down? Tired of paparazzi swarming like hornets? Tied to electronics? Mountain Shadows is your remedy. This resort is a place of refuge, away from the hustle and bustle of downtown Phoenix, set above the fancy shops and eateries of Scottsdale. It's the most recent property recreated by the Westroc group and its partners.

After all, if Mountain Shadows worked for dozens of the glamorous late '50s elite such as Lucile Ball and Desi Arnez, why not you? Of course, this isn’t the Hollywood getaway of the days of early TV, or even the episode of the TV pop show, The Monkees; those buildings no longer exist.

Lucille Ball extends the glad hand on her way into Mountain Shadows

Mountain Shadows view of Camelback Mountain

Lunch at Hearth 61

In their place, stunning ultramodern architecture takes in two-story floor-to-ceiling views of shadows falling over Camelback Mountain, two aqua blue pools beckon, luxe condos and rooms cocoon, an 18-hole golf course challenges, and an open kitchen/restaurant, Hearth 61, serves up locally sourced, thoughtfully prepared nourishment (the grilled eggplant and quinoa is especially tasty, though steak frites shared the drool factor). The bar and lounge enhance the serenity with a bubbling fountain and cozy seating in case you want company, but not too much. Rates are reasonable for this new property $215 - 500 per night, depending on the room and date.

Room at Mountain Shadows

Hotel Valley Ho
6850 East Main Street
Scottsdale, AZ 85251
(480) 376-2600 
https://www.hotelvalleyho.com/ 

Mountain Shadows

5445 E. Lincoln Dr.

Paradise Valley, AZ 85253 

(855) 485-1417

 mountainshadows.com/

Another view of Mountain Shadows' property