The Champagne of Bottled Springs

View from the enclosed "beauty baths"

I crossed over the mountain from a pleasant 65-degree, overcast, calm morning in Fort Bragg to Willits and Ukiah, where a 106-degree temperature nearly melted my car seats. Isn't it just like California to have a 35-degree temperature change an hour's distance away.

My main reason for stopping in Ukiah was Vichy Springs Resort, one of the oldest continuously operating mineral springs in the state. Vichy is touted as "Jack London's favorite" for it's bubbly carbonated water. It's certainly gone upscale since my last trip here 15 years ago. Then it was a clothing-optional hippie haven, with a shed where you paid to use the facilities. Now there's a set of hotel rooms, an Olympic-size pool, walking trails and landscaping. One of the trails leads to a waterfall  But some things remain the same as they were in 1854, when the former Native American site was "discovered" by settlers.

The old concrete tubs are stained with 160 year's of constant mineral

inflow. Bathing suits are required throughout the property, but there are 3 two-tub rooms like this one which can be conveniently locked for those who eschew swimwear. There are outdoor open tubs, and an open hot tub (104 degrees). The mineral bathing water isn't hot as most think of mineral springs - it's kept at 70 degrees year round.  If you sit still in the regular baths, you'll be covered with thousands of tiny bubbles, thanks to the water's carbonation - the "champagne effect." The tubs are huge: 8 feet long and 3 feet deep, and the bottoms are rough from decades of use (if you wear a suit, make it your shabbiest one, as the rough bottoms are tough on YOUR bottom and will tear up the lycra). Be warned: if you have some difficulty stepping down and up that distance, you'll need assistance (they're planning on putting up grab bars).

Tubs fill and empty using 1860s tech: You pull up the standpipe (the white thing in this pic) and place it in the hole on the other end of the tub; the tub fills. Reverse the procedure to empty the tub.

This particular tub is in the "beauty baths", which have more boron and less carbonation than the regular tubs. That mound surrounding the standpipe is a century of mineral flow accumulation of iron, sulphur and other minerals, supposedly great for softening the skin.

All I know is that I felt relaxed and happy after my $35 two-hour visit ($50 for three hours). Must have been the tiny bubbles.

On the way down 101, I was struck by a sudden desire tor barbecue, and I found a most interesting place: The Hamburger Ranch Slow Cooked BBQ in north Cloverdale (pardon me, "The World Famous Hamburger Ranch & BBQ" - they have a wall of international postcards to prove it). Country music on the speakers, old west funk decor and great BBQ. I fell in love with the waiter when he cheerfully replied, "Of course!" to every request. I understand this place is normally packed for sports games - I hope that's in their future. Meanwhile, if you're in the neighborhood, it's a worthwhile stop. Good 'cue isn't easy to find.