The Champagne of Bottled Springs

View from the enclosed "beauty baths"

I crossed over the mountain from a pleasant 65-degree, overcast, calm morning in Fort Bragg to Willits and Ukiah, where a 106-degree temperature nearly melted my car seats. Isn't it just like California to have a 35-degree temperature change an hour's distance away.

My main reason for stopping in Ukiah was Vichy Springs Resort, one of the oldest continuously operating mineral springs in the state. Vichy is touted as "Jack London's favorite" for it's bubbly carbonated water. It's certainly gone upscale since my last trip here 15 years ago. Then it was a clothing-optional hippie haven, with a shed where you paid to use the facilities. Now there's a set of hotel rooms, an Olympic-size pool, walking trails and landscaping. One of the trails leads to a waterfall  But some things remain the same as they were in 1854, when the former Native American site was "discovered" by settlers.

The old concrete tubs are stained with 160 year's of constant mineral

inflow. Bathing suits are required throughout the property, but there are 3 two-tub rooms like this one which can be conveniently locked for those who eschew swimwear. There are outdoor open tubs, and an open hot tub (104 degrees). The mineral bathing water isn't hot as most think of mineral springs - it's kept at 70 degrees year round.  If you sit still in the regular baths, you'll be covered with thousands of tiny bubbles, thanks to the water's carbonation - the "champagne effect." The tubs are huge: 8 feet long and 3 feet deep, and the bottoms are rough from decades of use (if you wear a suit, make it your shabbiest one, as the rough bottoms are tough on YOUR bottom and will tear up the lycra). Be warned: if you have some difficulty stepping down and up that distance, you'll need assistance (they're planning on putting up grab bars).

Tubs fill and empty using 1860s tech: You pull up the standpipe (the white thing in this pic) and place it in the hole on the other end of the tub; the tub fills. Reverse the procedure to empty the tub.

This particular tub is in the "beauty baths", which have more boron and less carbonation than the regular tubs. That mound surrounding the standpipe is a century of mineral flow accumulation of iron, sulphur and other minerals, supposedly great for softening the skin.

All I know is that I felt relaxed and happy after my $35 two-hour visit ($50 for three hours). Must have been the tiny bubbles.

On the way down 101, I was struck by a sudden desire tor barbecue, and I found a most interesting place: The Hamburger Ranch Slow Cooked BBQ in north Cloverdale (pardon me, "The World Famous Hamburger Ranch & BBQ" - they have a wall of international postcards to prove it). Country music on the speakers, old west funk decor and great BBQ. I fell in love with the waiter when he cheerfully replied, "Of course!" to every request. I understand this place is normally packed for sports games - I hope that's in their future. Meanwhile, if you're in the neighborhood, it's a worthwhile stop. Good 'cue isn't easy to find.

Jack London State Park and an Excellent Biodynamic Winery--Benziger

I'm lucky enough to live near northern California's wine country, and summer  and autumn are perfect times for a trip to Glen Ellen, heart of the Sonoma Valley. Among the sights, one must-see is the beautifully maintained Jack London State Historic Park, dramatically saved from closure by a group of volunteers. Even if London's widely known adventure stories, such as "White Fang" and "Call of the Wild" never made it to your reading list, the park crystalizes the life of the author and his wife, Charmiane as if in amber. The House of Happy Walls museum and Beauty Ranch on the property hold numerous artifacts from their travels in the south seas and around the world, and are so effectively laid out you wouldn't be surprised to see Charmiane sweeping into the room in a shirtwaist and floor-length skirt, followed by the chain-smoking, high-living author; London's lifestyle was almost as famous as his books.

A view of Wolf House

Their stories are tied into northern California history in many ways--London was one of the founders of the Bohemian Club, when it was a bastion of artists and writers. Also on the property, the ruins of Wolf House, the London's dream home that burned to the ground under suspicious circumstances shortly before they were to move in. Take a docent-lead tour to make the most of the property. Beyond the hiking trails and buildings, the park offers many events and activities, including a "Broadway under the Stars" series complete with food trucks. Click on the link above to find out more.

Benziger's recycle pond

On the way back down London Ranch Rd. from the park, take a moment to stop in at Benziger Family winery--one of Sonoma's privately owned wineries (it really IS family owned--members of the large Benziger family, headed by big brother Mike, participate in the winery's operation). Award-winning Benziger was the first in the area to go biodynamic; a process that not only practices the highest level of organic farming, but uses a complete ecosystem--plants and animals on the property--to cut the use of chemicals. You can take a virtual visit on the website, but nothing beats riding along on a tram tour of the lovely property, then enjoying a tasting. AND, the wines are delicious!