Housebound and Yosemite Redux

Tunnel View - still spectacular! Image courtesy of Adriayn Smith-Lee

This is day seven of shelter-in-place for us Californians. Plenty of time to reflect and remember, in between the times we emerge from our hovels blinking at the light. I'm recalling a recent trip to Yosemite my daughter organized - and the new realities of global warming. The park is now closed to visitors, by the way. We drove down to the southern entrance, Oakhurst; a first, since I've always come from the north end before. The fields in the valley were white with almond blossoms under an iron-gray sky. The drive from Sacramento was easy and brief (I can't say the same for an episode of minor food poisoning at an unnamed diner along the way).

Image courtesy of Adriayn Smith-Lee

Ah, Yosemite in mid-February - we expected snow (the south entrance is closer to Badger Pass, the ski area) with the appropriate bundling and booting; what we got was dry and warm - an average of 60 degrees. Snow was actually being brought in to nearly-deserted Badger Pass. We found one trail with a little rapidly melting snow on it and took a short hike the first day.

Image courtesy of Adriayn Smith-Lee

Image courtesy of Adriayn Smith-Lee

We had hoped to take the Mariposa Grove trail to see the redwoods, but the parking lot and trails were closed. Nikki booked us a couple of nights at a place called the Narrow Gauge Inn, right next to a little steam train attraction called the Sugar Pine Railroad in Fish Camp (18 miles north of Oakhurst, and a good hour south of Yosemite Valley). The railroad was closed, of course, until May, as was the restaurant and bar at the Inn. In fact, many of the roads surrounding Yosemite and other attractions were closed until May, including the Wawona Hotel, her first choice. Nearby Tenaya Lodge was open at the time, however.

Image courtesy of Adriayn Smith-Lee

Image courtesy of Adriayn Smith-Lee

Nik's favorite chair at the Ahwanee

On the way north to the park, we stopped in at the tiny Fish Camp General Store on the west side of Hwy. 41, hoping to score some lunch; tt looked to be built out of an old railroad car. The charming young man who ran the place was not expecting a lot of business, judging from the sparse shelves and dust on some of the packaging.
The park itself was open, and crowded as usual, but dry as a bone. We had dinner at the cafe in the Ahwanee. The hotel is as grand and historic as ever, overpriced and not terribly crowded. As we took in the sights, there was some water coming over the falls; we drove on the circle road, taking in most of what we've seen on our last trip several years ago, and returning to the Inn at night.

The next day, we decided to go south from the Inn, into the Sierra National Forest toward Oakhurst. We had a hankering to wander around a cute little gold rush town; alas, we drove around Oakhurst in vain; it's a commercial center. We drove up to the village of Ahwanee, expecting, perhaps, a little more history. But there was no there there. What we did find was The Hitching Post (Hwy. 49, Ahwannee - on the west side of the road, you can't miss it), a funky restaurant with incredible food and equally incredible prices. I had the fish and chips (risky ordering fish inland, no kidding - living dangerously) for $14, and it was the BEST, hands down, that I've had in a couple years. Real fish, really breaded there, really made there, and huge portions. My daughter had a sandwich that was equally amazing. This is the sort of place that only locals know; when I complimented the woman behind the cash register (it definitely seemed family owned), she seemed surprised and said, "y'all come back!". I would airlift this place to Marin if I could.

On the way back from Oakhurst, we drove out Rtes. 222 and 224 to Bass Lake. Many of the people who settled around the west end of the lake had some bucks. We saw a fairly ordinary-looking property that turned out to be a 3-bedroom with a boat berth for over $1.5 million (reduced!). It might have been worth it at some point, but the lake was so low all the wooden walkways to the boat berths were sitting on dirt. No snow = no water in the lake. Bass Lake is a man-made reservoir; we drove up to the dam and took a walk on the gravel path. There were a few shops and a fancy restaurant (Ducey's) in the strip of buildings that made up the town, but most places were deserted on this sunny, dry day.

Edge of Bass Lake. Image courtesy of Adriayn Smith-Lee

On the way back, we stopped at a place recommended by the Inn: Corlieu Falls, about two miles south of the Inn, 16 or so miles north of Oakhurst. It's a short, steep hike rewarded with a series of full, beautiful waterfalls; a reminder that there are plenty of places outside Yosemite that are worthwhile. If we had known about the Scenic Byway (Skyranch Road off Hwy. 41, to St. Rte. 7 to Rte. 81, then Road 225 to 274 past Bass Lake) at the time, we might have taken it, especially since it passed Nelder Grove, another stand of giant sequoias. It's a three-hour drive at least, so a real time commitment (mostly in the car).

Corlieu Falls. Image courtesy of Adriayn Smith-Lee

On the way home, we both concluded that we've seen enough of Yosemite. It's become nature's Disneyland. The sad part is, since our last visit in 2015, the weather has warmed up even more. Very little snow then, but it at least was cold(er). Since the Sierras supply most of California's water, this is very bad news indeed.

Image courtesy of Adriayn Smith-Lee

Yosemite: Getting There, Getting Around

The hoosegow in Groveland

We drove into the park via the northern route, Hwy. 120, through Groveland. Formerly known as Garrotte due to a local hanging, this little town is as charming as foothill villages get. Most of the buildings on the main street are originals, built as early as 1849 (when it was known as Savage’s Diggings after a local gold discovery). I suspect Groveland was a hippie haven during the back-to-the-land movement in the early 1970s, as there are a lot of artists in town (many buildings are decorated with large abstract canvases); cool little restaurants and shops abound, and the average age appears to be—well, picture hip 20-somethings in 1970, then and now. This was an excellent place to stop for lunch, which we did at Dori’s Tea Cottage (18744 Main Street, http://doristeacottage.com/, 209-962-5300), the former Groveland Post Office. Lovely service, sandwiches, and people.

Downtown Groveland

Hwy. 120 climbs a torturous route over a mountain and through the charred remains of a very big fire – the “Rim Fire” of 2013 that burned more than 165 square miles and caused Governor Brown to issue a state of emergency. On the way in, tree crews closed the route down to one lane in a couple of places to facilitate tree removal, though undergrowth is coming back. Most fires are caused by lightning strikes, and are a normal part of the mountain growth and re-growth cycle, though dry weather has increased the frequency and intensity of forest fires throughout the U.S.

If you’re lucky enough to encounter snow on your trip to Yosemite, you might consider taking YARTS bus service (www.yarts.com, 1-877-989-2787) from one of many stops from the Merced airport to villages along Hwy. 140 direct to Yosemite. YARTS not only connects with the airport, it also stops by Merced AMTRAK if you choose to travel by train. Though Hwy. 140 is usually open to cars without snow tires or chains, getting around the valley might be a challenge in icy conditions. Once inside the valley, you can take the free shuttle from a dozen stops; it runs every half-hour (www.yosemitepark.com).

On the way out of the Valley, we took Hwy. 140, following the scenic Merced River. An enormous rockslide closed down part of the road, covering the old route with what looked like 100 tons of boulders and causing a one-lane detour. This original paved road into the park parallels the old stagecoach route, which can still be seen across the river. In the town of Mariposa, the first city on the route out of the park. We stopped at a place recommended by Lisa Cesaro, PR Manager for Delaware North, the company that currently owns and runs the concessions in Yosemite. It more than met Lisa’s description: funky on the outside, amazing on the inside. 

The menu pretty much offered every diner delight known to humankind, with plenty of vegan and vegetarian options, at prices that were certainly delightful after Yosemite. The burgers are spectacular, as are the fries, the zucchini fries, and the uber-nice family that runs the place. By all means, stop at the Happy Burger Diner, located at the corner of Highway 140 and 12th Streets (http://happyburgerdiner.com/).

The "stairmaster" at Vernal Falls

Yosemite: Eat Well, Sleep Like a Bear

Yes, the Ahwahnee has shops. This little number--one of 100 signed pieces--costs $895.

The Ahwahnee dining room

The over-the-top December Bracebridge Dinner (based on a series of stories by Washington Irving, “Bracebridge Hall”-–the 1822 precursor to “Downton Abbey”), was first instituted on Christmas day in 1927. Alas, in January we were too late to share the feast, but we did enjoy a fabulous dinner in the Ahwahnee dining room. Perfect Caesar salad, prime rib, swordfish, and the Ahwahnee’s legendary boysenberry pie.

Jerry hard at work

Our waiter, Jerry, was a font of wine knowledge and helped us pick a real beauty of a red for dinner. We also ate dinner in the pleasant Ahwahnee bar one night; good menu, nice surroundings, decent prices (considering it’s in the Ahwahnee). Other options we tried: the Mountain Food Court (next to Yosemite Lodge), excellent choices for hot breakfast, lunch, and picnic goods. We also heard the Mountain Room Restaurant was a favorite among locals. Expect “hotel prices” everywhere—after all, you are a captive audience. If you’re on a budget, bring fruit and other foods you can store in your hotel room mini-fridge.

As for comfort, Lady Astor (who, in 1925, famously refused to stay in the park because it was too rustic), would be well pleased. The luxe Ahwahnee hotel (its name taken from the Miwok word “Ahwahneechee” meaning “dweller of the Valley”) was built in 1927. There are other options, from tent camping and cabins (depending on the weather) and hotel rooms at Curry Village, and the reasonably priced Yosemite Lodge at the Falls (where we stayed—recently redecorated and popular with families).

The view from our room.

Lodging Reservations: yosemitepark.com, (801) 559-5000; Guest Facilities and Services: yosemitepark.com, (209) 372-1000

You can definitely sit a spell in the Ahwahnee--no reservations required.

Yosemite: Hike and Meet the Locals (Wildlife, That Is)

You have dried fruit? I'm very fond of dried fruit. Unsulphered, of course.

A big part of a Yosemite visit in any season is sport. In 1864, the U.S. Government set aside Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Grove as a reserve for the State of California to “be held for public use, resort and recreation…inalienable for all time.” In 1890 the high country surrounding Yosemite Valley was designated a National Park, and the valley floor became part of the park in 1906. Rock climbing is huge here, as is hiking. In cold winters, Badger Pass ski area is open for winter sports (now closed for lack of snow).

In compensation, hiking trails that are normally off-limits in a cold winter are open. We took the Mist Trail up to Vernal Falls. My daughter, who has climbed Half Dome four times, said that hiking the Mist Trail in summer means trudging along with a steady stream of people. We didn’t see more than a dozen folks on the trail this time; same for walking the loop trail around the valley floor. Though we did encounter a few school buses on day trips, we were often alone. All the trails ascending from the valley floor go UP from the 4,0000-foot elevation of the valley floor itself; it made for some heavy breathing, and not the good kind, so expect a few stops to catch your breath along the way.

The mild winter brings wildlife down into the Valley. Close to Vernal Falls, we met a very personable gray squirrel who, having previously overwhelmed other hikers with cuddly cuteness, crossed the trail in front of us, hopped on a rock to be closer to our faces, and assumed a prayerful attitude. VERY hard to resist, but we did. There are plenty of warnings about bears, but what we saw most often were coyotes. Judging from their curiosity, plush coats, and low-fear attitude, these guys had obviously persuaded visitors to break the law and hand out snacks in the past.

The Curry Village ice rink was open, and a few skaters made the rounds. One woman we talked to, a Yosemite employee for 20 years, said she liked to take the alpenglow shift on the ice, to see the sun light up Half Dome. It was spectacular.

Yosemite information: www.yosemitepark.com/

Twilight, as seen from the Camp Curry Ice Rink

Three Days in Yosemite: “The Winters Seemed Colder Then”

Glacier Point

“In the mid 1920s there were 80 or 90 permanent residents in the Valley…. With the first significant snowfall, the youngsters started getting together to make snowmen, to skate or get involved in a snowball fight…. The winters seemed colder then.” - Tom Sovulewski, born Yosemite Valley, 1912*

I've been to Yosemite in all seasons, including a very snowy winter 15 years ago that included a stay at the Wawona Lodge south of the park and powder skiing at Badger Pass. This year couldn’t have been more different.

As the planet segues from the latest ice age into accelerated global warming, the legendary icy winters that made Yosemite accessible only to rugged pioneer homesteaders like James Hutchings have turned meek and mild…and amazingly empty, at least until the word gets out. Keep in mind that Yosemite is a National Park, and an individual pass for seven days costs $10, a vehicle pass is $20. Various National Park passes—like a $10 senior pass–get you in for free.

El Capitan

If you, like me, were used to seeing the soaring granite cliffs and towering waterfalls of Yosemite over the heads of a hundred visitors from all over the world, you’re in for a treat. On a recent visit, the trails and roads were all but deserted. It felt almost like 1925, the year before Hwy. 140 was first paved and park visitation increased sevenfold. It’s well above that now, with thousands of visitors a year—except in winter.

Bridal Veil Falls

Why visit Yosemite? Sub-alpine belts of whitebark pine, red fir and lodgepole pine cover the lower reaches of the valley, making it green all year around, except for the wide golden meadows. Water, clear as green glass, tumbles over elephant-sized boulders. There are things in life that naturally take your breath away, and the 8,000-foot granite structures that make the Valley’s walls are in that category. Gorgeous photos of Half Dome, The Three Brothers, El Capitan and the waterfalls that leap from cliff tops must number in the millions, but nothing takes the place of actually being there. Nothing. Go now.

*From Magic Yosemite Winters, Gene Rose (Coldstream Preess 1999)

Yosemite information: www.yosemitepark.com/

Half Dome in half light