Yosemite: Hike and Meet the Locals (Wildlife, That Is)

You have dried fruit? I'm very fond of dried fruit. Unsulphered, of course.

A big part of a Yosemite visit in any season is sport. In 1864, the U.S. Government set aside Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Grove as a reserve for the State of California to “be held for public use, resort and recreation…inalienable for all time.” In 1890 the high country surrounding Yosemite Valley was designated a National Park, and the valley floor became part of the park in 1906. Rock climbing is huge here, as is hiking. In cold winters, Badger Pass ski area is open for winter sports (now closed for lack of snow).

In compensation, hiking trails that are normally off-limits in a cold winter are open. We took the Mist Trail up to Vernal Falls. My daughter, who has climbed Half Dome four times, said that hiking the Mist Trail in summer means trudging along with a steady stream of people. We didn’t see more than a dozen folks on the trail this time; same for walking the loop trail around the valley floor. Though we did encounter a few school buses on day trips, we were often alone. All the trails ascending from the valley floor go UP from the 4,0000-foot elevation of the valley floor itself; it made for some heavy breathing, and not the good kind, so expect a few stops to catch your breath along the way.

The mild winter brings wildlife down into the Valley. Close to Vernal Falls, we met a very personable gray squirrel who, having previously overwhelmed other hikers with cuddly cuteness, crossed the trail in front of us, hopped on a rock to be closer to our faces, and assumed a prayerful attitude. VERY hard to resist, but we did. There are plenty of warnings about bears, but what we saw most often were coyotes. Judging from their curiosity, plush coats, and low-fear attitude, these guys had obviously persuaded visitors to break the law and hand out snacks in the past.

The Curry Village ice rink was open, and a few skaters made the rounds. One woman we talked to, a Yosemite employee for 20 years, said she liked to take the alpenglow shift on the ice, to see the sun light up Half Dome. It was spectacular.

Yosemite information: www.yosemitepark.com/

Twilight, as seen from the Camp Curry Ice Rink