Yosemite: Eat Well, Sleep Like a Bear

Yes, the Ahwahnee has shops. This little number--one of 100 signed pieces--costs $895.

The Ahwahnee dining room

The over-the-top December Bracebridge Dinner (based on a series of stories by Washington Irving, “Bracebridge Hall”-–the 1822 precursor to “Downton Abbey”), was first instituted on Christmas day in 1927. Alas, in January we were too late to share the feast, but we did enjoy a fabulous dinner in the Ahwahnee dining room. Perfect Caesar salad, prime rib, swordfish, and the Ahwahnee’s legendary boysenberry pie.

Jerry hard at work

Our waiter, Jerry, was a font of wine knowledge and helped us pick a real beauty of a red for dinner. We also ate dinner in the pleasant Ahwahnee bar one night; good menu, nice surroundings, decent prices (considering it’s in the Ahwahnee). Other options we tried: the Mountain Food Court (next to Yosemite Lodge), excellent choices for hot breakfast, lunch, and picnic goods. We also heard the Mountain Room Restaurant was a favorite among locals. Expect “hotel prices” everywhere—after all, you are a captive audience. If you’re on a budget, bring fruit and other foods you can store in your hotel room mini-fridge.

As for comfort, Lady Astor (who, in 1925, famously refused to stay in the park because it was too rustic), would be well pleased. The luxe Ahwahnee hotel (its name taken from the Miwok word “Ahwahneechee” meaning “dweller of the Valley”) was built in 1927. There are other options, from tent camping and cabins (depending on the weather) and hotel rooms at Curry Village, and the reasonably priced Yosemite Lodge at the Falls (where we stayed—recently redecorated and popular with families).

The view from our room.

Lodging Reservations: yosemitepark.com, (801) 559-5000; Guest Facilities and Services: yosemitepark.com, (209) 372-1000

You can definitely sit a spell in the Ahwahnee--no reservations required.