Yosemite: Getting There, Getting Around

The hoosegow in Groveland

We drove into the park via the northern route, Hwy. 120, through Groveland. Formerly known as Garrotte due to a local hanging, this little town is as charming as foothill villages get. Most of the buildings on the main street are originals, built as early as 1849 (when it was known as Savage’s Diggings after a local gold discovery). I suspect Groveland was a hippie haven during the back-to-the-land movement in the early 1970s, as there are a lot of artists in town (many buildings are decorated with large abstract canvases); cool little restaurants and shops abound, and the average age appears to be—well, picture hip 20-somethings in 1970, then and now. This was an excellent place to stop for lunch, which we did at Dori’s Tea Cottage (18744 Main Street, http://doristeacottage.com/, 209-962-5300), the former Groveland Post Office. Lovely service, sandwiches, and people.

Downtown Groveland

Hwy. 120 climbs a torturous route over a mountain and through the charred remains of a very big fire – the “Rim Fire” of 2013 that burned more than 165 square miles and caused Governor Brown to issue a state of emergency. On the way in, tree crews closed the route down to one lane in a couple of places to facilitate tree removal, though undergrowth is coming back. Most fires are caused by lightning strikes, and are a normal part of the mountain growth and re-growth cycle, though dry weather has increased the frequency and intensity of forest fires throughout the U.S.

If you’re lucky enough to encounter snow on your trip to Yosemite, you might consider taking YARTS bus service (www.yarts.com, 1-877-989-2787) from one of many stops from the Merced airport to villages along Hwy. 140 direct to Yosemite. YARTS not only connects with the airport, it also stops by Merced AMTRAK if you choose to travel by train. Though Hwy. 140 is usually open to cars without snow tires or chains, getting around the valley might be a challenge in icy conditions. Once inside the valley, you can take the free shuttle from a dozen stops; it runs every half-hour (www.yosemitepark.com).

On the way out of the Valley, we took Hwy. 140, following the scenic Merced River. An enormous rockslide closed down part of the road, covering the old route with what looked like 100 tons of boulders and causing a one-lane detour. This original paved road into the park parallels the old stagecoach route, which can still be seen across the river. In the town of Mariposa, the first city on the route out of the park. We stopped at a place recommended by Lisa Cesaro, PR Manager for Delaware North, the company that currently owns and runs the concessions in Yosemite. It more than met Lisa’s description: funky on the outside, amazing on the inside. 

The menu pretty much offered every diner delight known to humankind, with plenty of vegan and vegetarian options, at prices that were certainly delightful after Yosemite. The burgers are spectacular, as are the fries, the zucchini fries, and the uber-nice family that runs the place. By all means, stop at the Happy Burger Diner, located at the corner of Highway 140 and 12th Streets (http://happyburgerdiner.com/).

The "stairmaster" at Vernal Falls