ROAD TRIP! Exploring Life in the Northland...

The coast by Heceta Head, Florence, OR

 It was a road trip for fun; it was a research trip for the future. My daughter and her husband lived in Portland for a year a while back, and I’ve had many friends who were nostalgically familiar with Portland, Eugene and southern Oregon. To experience a real Autumn, with deciduous trees in a Trix bowl of colors, a mild winter (maybe even snow!), a cooler summer – it all had appeal, not only as a place to visit, but for a possible migration north. The water situation in northern California is not a good one. Snow in the Sierras seems to get thinner-to-non-existent every year, and our water supply largely stems from snowmelt (we won’t mention here about how LA and points in between are bleeding off what water we have – see the movie Chinatown for that story). California is experiencing its most severe drought in recent history. Lake Shasta is currently at 53% total capacity (more about the current water conditions in California and the Bureau of Reclamation's webpage).

Traffic has reached critical levels; the expense of living in the Bay Area surrounding San Francisco has crept up like a starving tiger thanks to the dotcom super-salary boom, and California is burning.
 It’s a concern for the future. Leaving this gorgeous place for good would require at least a lateral move (same quality of life and beauty, less traffic and expense). The image of wet and green Oregon was more than tempting – so Ms. Nikki (my daughter) and I decided to test the water, so to speak. It was illuminating.

Gold Country/Father Knows Best: Railtown 1897 State Historic Park

Photo: Bonnie Kamin Morrissey

Conductor Brian gives us the goods (Photo: Bonnie Kamin Morrissey)

My dad was a railroad man—he worked for the Southern Pacific for many years, and loved it. You can see that ardent love of the rails in all the volunteers who populate the Railtown 1897 State Historic Park in Jamestown, one of only two fully operational roundhouse complexes left in the country (the other is at East Broad Top Railroad in Broad Top City, PA—yes, it’s in my book, Moon Travel Handbooks: Pennsylvania). A roundhouse is the shop facility that maintains and repairs rail engines and cars; equipment that's being restored is on display. The roundhouse is open for tours year-round, but there’s far more here. Most of the repairmen and "rail personnel" are volunteers, many of them former rail employees like my dad.

Our engineer by his locomotive (Photo: Bonnie Kamin Morrissey)

Hollywood saved this historic site from being scraped during the Great Depression. Starting in 1919, more than 200 movies and television programs were filmed using the former Sierra Railway's steam engines, buildings, and other equipment. This historic landmark hosts regular round trips on a three-mile long-track Saturday through Monday from April through October: steam trains pull passenger cars on Saturdays, and vintage diesel locomotives operate on Sundays, plus Wednesdays in July and August (tickets $10-15, under 5 free). Each passenger car has a “conductor” that tells of rail days gone by. There are multiple events held throughout the year, and volunteers dressed as passengers during the hey-day of rail travel wander through the park and answer questions. One of the most popular and fun events is the Polar Express Train Ride in December; families can enjoy hot chocolate and cookies with costumed characters from the animated film, Polar Express. When passengers reach the North Pole, Santa comes aboard and gives each ticketholder a silver sleigh bell, “the first gift of Christmas.”

Photo: Bonnie Kamin Morrissey

 The singular smell of the roundhouse—grease, dirt, steel and smoke—though rooted in a long-distant past--brought back so many memories of my dad returning from work, bearing a whiff of engines and rails on his clothes. The people who dress up and give their time and energy to this bit of American history, engineers in their stripped caps and Victorian ladies with parasols alike, are equally dedicated to the gritty romance of trains. This is a special place.

Railtown 1897 State Historic Park, 
10501 Reservoir Road, Jamestown, CA 95327

www.railtown1897.org


Map to the location

Yosemite: Getting There, Getting Around

The hoosegow in Groveland

We drove into the park via the northern route, Hwy. 120, through Groveland. Formerly known as Garrotte due to a local hanging, this little town is as charming as foothill villages get. Most of the buildings on the main street are originals, built as early as 1849 (when it was known as Savage’s Diggings after a local gold discovery). I suspect Groveland was a hippie haven during the back-to-the-land movement in the early 1970s, as there are a lot of artists in town (many buildings are decorated with large abstract canvases); cool little restaurants and shops abound, and the average age appears to be—well, picture hip 20-somethings in 1970, then and now. This was an excellent place to stop for lunch, which we did at Dori’s Tea Cottage (18744 Main Street, http://doristeacottage.com/, 209-962-5300), the former Groveland Post Office. Lovely service, sandwiches, and people.

Downtown Groveland

Hwy. 120 climbs a torturous route over a mountain and through the charred remains of a very big fire – the “Rim Fire” of 2013 that burned more than 165 square miles and caused Governor Brown to issue a state of emergency. On the way in, tree crews closed the route down to one lane in a couple of places to facilitate tree removal, though undergrowth is coming back. Most fires are caused by lightning strikes, and are a normal part of the mountain growth and re-growth cycle, though dry weather has increased the frequency and intensity of forest fires throughout the U.S.

If you’re lucky enough to encounter snow on your trip to Yosemite, you might consider taking YARTS bus service (www.yarts.com, 1-877-989-2787) from one of many stops from the Merced airport to villages along Hwy. 140 direct to Yosemite. YARTS not only connects with the airport, it also stops by Merced AMTRAK if you choose to travel by train. Though Hwy. 140 is usually open to cars without snow tires or chains, getting around the valley might be a challenge in icy conditions. Once inside the valley, you can take the free shuttle from a dozen stops; it runs every half-hour (www.yosemitepark.com).

On the way out of the Valley, we took Hwy. 140, following the scenic Merced River. An enormous rockslide closed down part of the road, covering the old route with what looked like 100 tons of boulders and causing a one-lane detour. This original paved road into the park parallels the old stagecoach route, which can still be seen across the river. In the town of Mariposa, the first city on the route out of the park. We stopped at a place recommended by Lisa Cesaro, PR Manager for Delaware North, the company that currently owns and runs the concessions in Yosemite. It more than met Lisa’s description: funky on the outside, amazing on the inside. 

The menu pretty much offered every diner delight known to humankind, with plenty of vegan and vegetarian options, at prices that were certainly delightful after Yosemite. The burgers are spectacular, as are the fries, the zucchini fries, and the uber-nice family that runs the place. By all means, stop at the Happy Burger Diner, located at the corner of Highway 140 and 12th Streets (http://happyburgerdiner.com/).

The "stairmaster" at Vernal Falls

Yosemite: Eat Well, Sleep Like a Bear

Yes, the Ahwahnee has shops. This little number--one of 100 signed pieces--costs $895.

The Ahwahnee dining room

The over-the-top December Bracebridge Dinner (based on a series of stories by Washington Irving, “Bracebridge Hall”-–the 1822 precursor to “Downton Abbey”), was first instituted on Christmas day in 1927. Alas, in January we were too late to share the feast, but we did enjoy a fabulous dinner in the Ahwahnee dining room. Perfect Caesar salad, prime rib, swordfish, and the Ahwahnee’s legendary boysenberry pie.

Jerry hard at work

Our waiter, Jerry, was a font of wine knowledge and helped us pick a real beauty of a red for dinner. We also ate dinner in the pleasant Ahwahnee bar one night; good menu, nice surroundings, decent prices (considering it’s in the Ahwahnee). Other options we tried: the Mountain Food Court (next to Yosemite Lodge), excellent choices for hot breakfast, lunch, and picnic goods. We also heard the Mountain Room Restaurant was a favorite among locals. Expect “hotel prices” everywhere—after all, you are a captive audience. If you’re on a budget, bring fruit and other foods you can store in your hotel room mini-fridge.

As for comfort, Lady Astor (who, in 1925, famously refused to stay in the park because it was too rustic), would be well pleased. The luxe Ahwahnee hotel (its name taken from the Miwok word “Ahwahneechee” meaning “dweller of the Valley”) was built in 1927. There are other options, from tent camping and cabins (depending on the weather) and hotel rooms at Curry Village, and the reasonably priced Yosemite Lodge at the Falls (where we stayed—recently redecorated and popular with families).

The view from our room.

Lodging Reservations: yosemitepark.com, (801) 559-5000; Guest Facilities and Services: yosemitepark.com, (209) 372-1000

You can definitely sit a spell in the Ahwahnee--no reservations required.

Yosemite: Hike and Meet the Locals (Wildlife, That Is)

You have dried fruit? I'm very fond of dried fruit. Unsulphered, of course.

A big part of a Yosemite visit in any season is sport. In 1864, the U.S. Government set aside Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Grove as a reserve for the State of California to “be held for public use, resort and recreation…inalienable for all time.” In 1890 the high country surrounding Yosemite Valley was designated a National Park, and the valley floor became part of the park in 1906. Rock climbing is huge here, as is hiking. In cold winters, Badger Pass ski area is open for winter sports (now closed for lack of snow).

In compensation, hiking trails that are normally off-limits in a cold winter are open. We took the Mist Trail up to Vernal Falls. My daughter, who has climbed Half Dome four times, said that hiking the Mist Trail in summer means trudging along with a steady stream of people. We didn’t see more than a dozen folks on the trail this time; same for walking the loop trail around the valley floor. Though we did encounter a few school buses on day trips, we were often alone. All the trails ascending from the valley floor go UP from the 4,0000-foot elevation of the valley floor itself; it made for some heavy breathing, and not the good kind, so expect a few stops to catch your breath along the way.

The mild winter brings wildlife down into the Valley. Close to Vernal Falls, we met a very personable gray squirrel who, having previously overwhelmed other hikers with cuddly cuteness, crossed the trail in front of us, hopped on a rock to be closer to our faces, and assumed a prayerful attitude. VERY hard to resist, but we did. There are plenty of warnings about bears, but what we saw most often were coyotes. Judging from their curiosity, plush coats, and low-fear attitude, these guys had obviously persuaded visitors to break the law and hand out snacks in the past.

The Curry Village ice rink was open, and a few skaters made the rounds. One woman we talked to, a Yosemite employee for 20 years, said she liked to take the alpenglow shift on the ice, to see the sun light up Half Dome. It was spectacular.

Yosemite information: www.yosemitepark.com/

Twilight, as seen from the Camp Curry Ice Rink

Three Days in Yosemite: “The Winters Seemed Colder Then”

Glacier Point

“In the mid 1920s there were 80 or 90 permanent residents in the Valley…. With the first significant snowfall, the youngsters started getting together to make snowmen, to skate or get involved in a snowball fight…. The winters seemed colder then.” - Tom Sovulewski, born Yosemite Valley, 1912*

I've been to Yosemite in all seasons, including a very snowy winter 15 years ago that included a stay at the Wawona Lodge south of the park and powder skiing at Badger Pass. This year couldn’t have been more different.

As the planet segues from the latest ice age into accelerated global warming, the legendary icy winters that made Yosemite accessible only to rugged pioneer homesteaders like James Hutchings have turned meek and mild…and amazingly empty, at least until the word gets out. Keep in mind that Yosemite is a National Park, and an individual pass for seven days costs $10, a vehicle pass is $20. Various National Park passes—like a $10 senior pass–get you in for free.

El Capitan

If you, like me, were used to seeing the soaring granite cliffs and towering waterfalls of Yosemite over the heads of a hundred visitors from all over the world, you’re in for a treat. On a recent visit, the trails and roads were all but deserted. It felt almost like 1925, the year before Hwy. 140 was first paved and park visitation increased sevenfold. It’s well above that now, with thousands of visitors a year—except in winter.

Bridal Veil Falls

Why visit Yosemite? Sub-alpine belts of whitebark pine, red fir and lodgepole pine cover the lower reaches of the valley, making it green all year around, except for the wide golden meadows. Water, clear as green glass, tumbles over elephant-sized boulders. There are things in life that naturally take your breath away, and the 8,000-foot granite structures that make the Valley’s walls are in that category. Gorgeous photos of Half Dome, The Three Brothers, El Capitan and the waterfalls that leap from cliff tops must number in the millions, but nothing takes the place of actually being there. Nothing. Go now.

*From Magic Yosemite Winters, Gene Rose (Coldstream Preess 1999)

Yosemite information: www.yosemitepark.com/

Half Dome in half light