The Champagne of Bottled Springs

View from the enclosed "beauty baths"

I crossed over the mountain from a pleasant 65-degree, overcast, calm morning in Fort Bragg to Willits and Ukiah, where a 106-degree temperature nearly melted my car seats. Isn't it just like California to have a 35-degree temperature change an hour's distance away.

My main reason for stopping in Ukiah was Vichy Springs Resort, one of the oldest continuously operating mineral springs in the state. Vichy is touted as "Jack London's favorite" for it's bubbly carbonated water. It's certainly gone upscale since my last trip here 15 years ago. Then it was a clothing-optional hippie haven, with a shed where you paid to use the facilities. Now there's a set of hotel rooms, an Olympic-size pool, walking trails and landscaping. One of the trails leads to a waterfall  But some things remain the same as they were in 1854, when the former Native American site was "discovered" by settlers.

The old concrete tubs are stained with 160 year's of constant mineral

inflow. Bathing suits are required throughout the property, but there are 3 two-tub rooms like this one which can be conveniently locked for those who eschew swimwear. There are outdoor open tubs, and an open hot tub (104 degrees). The mineral bathing water isn't hot as most think of mineral springs - it's kept at 70 degrees year round.  If you sit still in the regular baths, you'll be covered with thousands of tiny bubbles, thanks to the water's carbonation - the "champagne effect." The tubs are huge: 8 feet long and 3 feet deep, and the bottoms are rough from decades of use (if you wear a suit, make it your shabbiest one, as the rough bottoms are tough on YOUR bottom and will tear up the lycra). Be warned: if you have some difficulty stepping down and up that distance, you'll need assistance (they're planning on putting up grab bars).

Tubs fill and empty using 1860s tech: You pull up the standpipe (the white thing in this pic) and place it in the hole on the other end of the tub; the tub fills. Reverse the procedure to empty the tub.

This particular tub is in the "beauty baths", which have more boron and less carbonation than the regular tubs. That mound surrounding the standpipe is a century of mineral flow accumulation of iron, sulphur and other minerals, supposedly great for softening the skin.

All I know is that I felt relaxed and happy after my $35 two-hour visit ($50 for three hours). Must have been the tiny bubbles.

On the way down 101, I was struck by a sudden desire tor barbecue, and I found a most interesting place: The Hamburger Ranch Slow Cooked BBQ in north Cloverdale (pardon me, "The World Famous Hamburger Ranch & BBQ" - they have a wall of international postcards to prove it). Country music on the speakers, old west funk decor and great BBQ. I fell in love with the waiter when he cheerfully replied, "Of course!" to every request. I understand this place is normally packed for sports games - I hope that's in their future. Meanwhile, if you're in the neighborhood, it's a worthwhile stop. Good 'cue isn't easy to find.

Getaway to Fort Bragg

Housebound for three-plus months is tough for anyone. I decided to take a spur-of-the-moment trip north on Highway 101, through the former home of racehorse Seabiscuit (and infamous pot-growing region) of Willits across the great divide on Highway 20 to Fort Bragg. Fort Bragg considered changing the name of the town recently; upon examination, the town's namesake, Braxton Bragg, turned out to have been a wildly racist, embarrassingly incompetent Confederate General who never set foot in the area. They've since dropped the issue. 

It's been a good 15-plus years since I visited Glass Beach, which is now part of McKerricher State Park. Last time I was there, it was little more than a dump site that had been thoroughly ground down by wave action, leaving thousands of bits of multi-colored beach glass. Nothing remains the same.

But first: I lucked out on AirB&B to find a place rarely unoccupied - it couldn't have been a better choice. It was a separate, fully equipped small cabin, surrounded by a gorgeous garden, enclosed in a redwood forest. The space itself was squeaky clean and full of books, pillows and every imaginable comfort, including full kitchen and bath. Kay, the owner and hostess extraordinare, met me at the gate.

No wonder this place is hard to book - if you're interested, definitely jump on it during an opening. It may be foggy at the beach, but here, a mile inland, it's sunny and quiet.

The first thing I did after settling in was a trip to Glass Beach. It's not a dump site any more. There's a big parking lot and beautiful trails throughout the bluffs, plenty of informative signs - but alas, not a lot of glass. They should rename it "Glitter Beach" or "Sparkle Beach" or some such, because tiny bits of old clear glass (colored grayish white from the waves) are littered among the shells and stones.

The sandy beaches were nearly empty; the weather was typical for a Northern California beach: sunny but windy in the early evening, about 62 degrees F.

A number of wildflowers grow in the region, some of them rare. Many were in full bloom, and to see them popping out of the waving grasses in mounds was a thing of beauty.

The old trestle - a good place to watch the sunset.

Wait, is that a body in the water?

Nope. It's someone's old beach towel/chef's apron that got away.

A note on dinner, alas. As a travel writer, I'm used to eating alone, and I seldom run into any kind of "special" treatment. Fort Bragg is a fairly large, isolated town with few sources of income for anyone except the tourist trade, which is less than half of what it usually is. That's why I was surprised by the oddly rude behavior of my waiter at Silver's at the Wharf. The staff, including my waiter, were laughing and joking with other patrons in groups of two or more - especially those that ordered from the bar. When I didn't, and ordered an inexpensive menu item, my waiter practically sneered at me. The fish and chips came quickly (decent rock cod and exceptional hand-cut fries, by the way), and timing was adequate, if somewhat unfriendly. Maybe I reminded him of his first wife.

Week #.....Aw, I've lost count. ART WILL SAVE US!

Covid-19 is still with us, with no signs of letting up. Here in Marin County, the local health organization has made it easy to get tested. I don't know if that's what's contributing to the new bump up in numbers, or whether people have gotten lazy about masks and gatherings. It's truly tough to go three and half months (since March 16) without seeing friends and family face-to-face! However, it's a lot tougher to get sick, very very sick, or be responsible for infecting hordes of people. It's not easy to grasp the exponential growth of infection, but one person truly can say, "I contain multitudes" (thank you, Walt Whitman, "Song of Myself") when it comes to the ability to infect and sicken large numbers of people.
On the good side, people are forced to slow down, become more introspective, and recognize what is truly valuable in our lives. A lot of set-aside home projects are getting done. And there's a lot of good TV and great videos out there!