A Really (Really!) Short Trip to Phoenix

These are glass Dale Chihuly "cacti"

Journeyed out on a brief trip to visit my friend who moved to Phoenix recently, and her dentist. I meet with and approve all my friends' service providers. No, I really was visiting her dentist because some expensive procedures cost about 1/3 less there than in the Bay Area--and that includes two round-trip flights! The main drawback is the Phoenix airport; due to runway rebuilding, three of my four flights were delayed between one and three hours. Flight personnel clued me to the best terminal to hang out in (if you HAVE to): Southwest Airlines (Terminal 4)--better restaurants, art etc. If you're going there, fly as early as possible in the morning.

We were able to do a little sight-seeing during my visit; unfortunately being outside for more than 10 minutes during the day is not something sane people do there (unless completely submerged in cold water), so the Casa Grande Ruins National Monument was saved for another day. We toured the tiny town of Florence--its few western-style streets looked like a cowboy movie set deserted in mid-day--and visited its well-stocked second-hand store that had some real treasures.

Outdoor dining at Gertrude's

Then it was up to the city of Phoenix, and the Desert Botanical Garden, which proved to be a fantastic find. Surrounded by hills resembling melted chocolate ice cream, the garden itself is beautifully lit and laid out (it was late in the afternoon by then, and the temperature had dropped to a reasonable 85 degrees). Our companion pooch melted the hearts of the attendants, but alas, no dogs allowed.
Since my flight continued to be delayed, we ended up spending a couple of hours at the restaurant in the garden. Gertrude's has an upscale seasonal menu and mixed drinks that are made from local ingredients and reflect the sunset in their beauty (my vote for best: Tombstone Tea, made with vodka, gin, triple sec, prickly pear nectar and lime syrup).

My favorite bite was the smoked and fried tofu appetizer with tomato kasaundi (a tomato-based dip) and curry salt--it was the chef's grandmother's recipe, modified by her Canadian upbringing and time in New Orleans. Our waiter, Kent, was a doll, especially given the amount of time we dawdled nursing our drinks and waiting for news from the airline. Jared, the bartender, was kind enough to let us taste his favorite (California) wine.

Next time--hopefully in winter, when the air temperature will drop down to the 70s, there's plenty I'd like to see in the Phoenix area beyond Casa Grande: Frank Lloyd Wright's Taliesin West in Scottsdale, the Boyce Thompson Arboretum State Park, the Painted Rock Petroglyphs...

Chihuly cacti at night

I'm just getting started! I better need more dental work soon...

Gold Country: Eve had it Right: Indigeny Reserve in Sonora

Oh, the perfume of ripening apples! In an Orion magazine article*, writer Gary Paul Naban describes a trip to the Eden-like birthplace of Malus sieversii in Kazakhstan, where researchers catalogued more than fifty-six wild forms of apples. Fortunately, fifty-one varieties of these fragrant beauties can be found in Sonora, California, considerably closer to home, and in forms just about anyone can appreciate year-round: hard cider, brandy and vodka.

The bottling plant (photo: Bonnie Kamin Morrissey)

The Watson family purchased the original 80-acre orchard in 2005 to keep the land from development, and expanded since then to 160 acres. Some of the trees date back to the early 1900s; it's the oldest stand of apple trees in Tuolumne County. After going through a three-year process for organic certification, they determined that nearly half the apples were not suitable for eating--hence the hard cider and other products (though there are plenty of sweet and juicy Honeycrisps during harvest time in early autumn).

The orchards, renamed the Indigeny Reserve in 2007, now offer a beautiful park-like setting for picnickers and a tasting room that’s open every day after 10AM. The reserve couldn’t be more attractive, from the entry road winding through a shady forest under a covered bridge to the tasting rooms, and a cidery and distilling plant built from locally harvested and re-purposed oak and cedar.

Speaking of distilleries, that isn't a giant flute on the left--it's the distilling unit, chugging away.

The grounds are gorgeous even in the rain

The view from the bridge

I can’t fail to mention the “extra-crisp” cider, which is my new favorite thing—made from Granny Smith apples, fermented with champagne yeast and served in aluminum bottles, this stuff is killer! There’s also a blackberry-flavored extra-crisp, and a cider made from all varieties of apples in the orchards. And brandy. And vodka. And a two-and-a-half-mile hiking trail to work it off. Even Adam couldn’t ask for anything more.

Lifting a cool one...(Photo: Bonnie Kamin Morrissey)

(Photo: Bonnie Kamin Morrissey)

Indigeny Reserve, 14679 Summers Lane, Sonora, CA

https://indigenyreserve.com/

Indigeny Reserve on Google Maps

*https://orionmagazine.org/article/the-fatherland-of-apples/

 All photos by Joanne Orion Miller unless otherwise noted. www.joanneorionmiller.com