Killing Time in Santander; What’s with the Caves and Lighthouses?

Santander Bay with assorted flying saucers disguised as clouds

Santander is a pretty old city on its own, though there’s nothing sadder than a beach town off season. A ferry from Portsmouth, England stops here, but this still-warm-and-humid autumn, only Spanish tourists were on the streets and pristine golden beaches, and not many of them.

I drove to the lighthouse and hiked around, taking in the views of the Atlantic and the town and the irregular shapes of the mountains behind it. The gentleman at El Laurel suggested a stop in the town’s park, with it’s former royal palace, beaches and little zoo; it was as well-maintained and pleasant as advertised. Sunday is not the best time to visit a Catholic country--everything is closed except for a few restaurants.

The former royal palace in Santander

I drove to the old fishing village, the original port of Santander; though the city is trying to turn this into a tourist destination, that goal is a long way off. I buzzed the tiny airport, knew I had at least an hour and a half before my flight, and decided to break my promise to myself of No More Reproductions.

Artist Henri Bueuil's drawing of an Alta Mira Horse, 1902

I drove out to Alta Mira Museum, the reproduction of the area’s most famous cave. It was as slick and Disney-ish as Lascaux II, though not quite as large or well organized. One striking thing about the Alta Mira ceiling: the bison herd. The large bumps in the ceiling, formed by the mud and limestone, had been transformed into a herd of nearly life-size sleeping bison, curled up in various positions, their standing brethren arranged around them. My favorite drawing was there, too—the Alta Mira rampant horse. I was glad I went.

I returned to Santander, and caught the flight on RyanAir to Barcelona. Long known for cheap flights in Europe, RyanAir gets you on the luggage—if you check a bag the day before the flight, it’s 22 Euros—at check-in, it’s 60 Euros ($32 - $87)—a lot of money for one suitcase. I understand their policies are changing to be more user friendly—I hope so.

Hanging out in Santander