Few properties in the San Francisco Bay Area rival the Claremont Hotel for fascinating history.
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| Even the light fixtures are gorgeous |
The "castle" sits high atop the Berkeley hills and is one of two landmarks that any local resident can identify from miles away--the other being the Mormon Temple in Oakland. In fact, the original "English castle" was built to please the wife of a Kansas farmer who struck it rich during the gold rush and purchased 13,000 acres on the site. Something must have rubbed off, as his daughter married into British Royalty in true Masterpiece style. The property changed hands, but was burnt to ruin in 1901. A pair of equally lucky miners won what was left in a checkers game, and proceeded to build the Claremont we identify today in 1905. Their dreams were shaken and stirred by the 'quake of 1906 and subsequent financial panic. The building was completed and opened it's doors to guests in 1915, just in time for San Francisco's Pan Pacific Exhibition.
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| Art in the lobby |
Prohibition came and went, but repeal did little to lift the Claremont's spirits (literally). The nearby University of California forbade the sale of liquor within one mile of it's borders; an enterprising student won drinks for life by carefully measuring the distance from the school's border to the door of the hotel. With a few feet to spare, the Terrace Bar was born.
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| This can be yours for five grand |
In 1937, a night clerk that had worked at the hotel since 1926 purchased the property and brought in big bands such as Count Basie and Tommy Dorsey for dancing and dining. The Claremont became a destination for dignitaries and prom dates. The hotel changed hands a few more times until it came under the auspices of Fairmont Hotels, who put up $40 million for a total restoration and an all-white make-over. Now known as the Claremont Club and Spa, visitors can come for a complete package.
Fairmont's renovation and modernization of the property might have made the interior stiff and cold; yet, they've managed to update restaurant, lobby, and rooms that continue to be warm and inviting. I was able to peek into the luxe President's Suite (with president's prices, $5K a night--but if you're the president of anything, you'd want to stay here).
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| Chef Joe explains it all to you |
Which brings me to why I'm lounging around the Limewood Bar & Restaurant nibbling appetizers. The Limewood is the newest star in the Claremont's firmament; Chef Joseph Humphrey has a resume that includes stints at some of the most famous eateries in the U.S., and General Manager/Sommelier Benjamin Chanler Laurin (he of the fabulous French accent) have put together an impressive menu and wine list. Favorites are oysters with hot pepper vinegar and grilled and glazed Gulf shrimp.
The old girl on the hill continues to be a destination, and a great one. Frank Lloyd Wright's words still ring true; he dubbed the Claremont: "...one of the few hotels in the world with warmth, character and charm."
