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| Carved stone wall detail, Fatehpur Sikri |
A highlight
of Fatehpur Sikri is the mausoleum dedicated to the Sufi saint Salim Chishti. Mughal emperor Shah Jahan (Akbar's grandson) was childless
by all three of his wives; during one of his many war campaigns, he visited
Salim Chisti in his desert hermitage. Chishti was reputed to bless Akbar’s
union with Mumtaz Mahal, and three sons were born in rapid succession. The marriage produced a total of 14
children. As Mumtaz lay dying after childbirth number 14, Akbar hurried to her side. She made him promise to never marry again, and to build a tomb for her that
would stand for all time. Muslim rulers in Rajasthan married a number of wives
(marriages were politically motivated) though Akbar recognized only three
queens before the death of Mumtaz. The “harem” of oriental fantasies consisted
of several levels of recognition, though most women in the seraglio were
serving women the wives brought with them as part of the bride price, rather
than concubines of the Maharajah. Akbar made good on both promises (yes, it’s
the Taj Mahal).
At the shrine of Salim Chishti, millions of colored strings
symbolizing wishes of all types are tied into the stone latticework windows
surrounding the tomb. I didn’t make a wish, but I ran my hands over the soft filaments of so many others…so much longing. I made a small donation and the imam who
was bopping people on the head with a broom-like object bopped me twice. That’s
the thanks I get.
To see specific reviews of guides/travel companies, places
to eat, stay and shop in India, see my
custom guide to the golden triangle on GoGoBot.
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