Ecuador: No Place Like It

An angel in Hotel Plaza Sucre

I've never felt the urge to travel to south America, and only went there because of a lifelong romance with the Galapagos. Then I had to face reality versus all the TV documentaries: there are not hordes of animals everywhere; in January, the ocean is often too murky and rough near the shore to see much when snorkeling; if you want to get to the Galapagos, you must first fly to Quito or Guayaquil--both towns have a reputation for robbery.

However, the islands themselves, due to the distance from the mainland and the mantle of National Park, are magical. The very act of living on a boat transforms your way of seeing. The air and water are as "natural" as it gets--the air is as pure and transparent as glass, the turbid ocean a product of volcanic action and layers of ash. There are no lights, anywhere, at night; the moon shines so brightly that the reflection on the waves is dazzling.

Life goes on here as it has since well before the Beagle brought Charles Darwin to the shores of Santa Isabella. The Galapagans continue their peaceful lives as fishermen, cattle ranchers, farmers or shopkeepers. Many now make a living from the tourist trade, a double-edged sword: swarms of non-natives looking for work have driven the population far beyond the islands' capacities . Because there are no natural water sources, rain is welcomed when it appears, and mourned when it doesn't. Water is scarce as ever, except in the highlands.

Fish market in Puerto Ayora

And then there's Quito, the highest capital city in the world: 9,350 feet (2,800 meters) above sea level. This fact becomes gaspingly evident to visitors as they haul a suitcase up a flight of stairs the first day. Initially, I stayed in Old Town, the National Historic District, and felt perfectly safe during the day (the presence of a battalion of military personnel and police added to that). On the way back, I stayed in "La Mariscal", the tourist section of town, and the feeling was completely different. Though the hostel was in a part of La Mariscal that young partiers would love--surrounded by night clubs and little eateries--the streets were also full of single young men and men in small groups who were obviously watching everyone who walked by. I saw one police "stand" (empty), and no police around. An elderly Ecuadorian woman in the hostel warned me to only carry as much money as I needed, and she stuck a couple of fingers in my side to emphasize her point. Walking in the area didn't feel safe; I got a sandwich from a nearby shop and scurried back to my room. In spite of that temporary feeling of discomfort, the Ecuadorians I interacted with were supremely polite and, well, nice. Lovely, reserved people.

The guide on the Fragata told me that tourism is down, especially from the US, their major market. If you want to experience the Galapagos, especially without a horde of other tourists ahead of and behind you, and you're willing to take last minute cut-rate fares, NOW is the time to go. You won't regret it.